Wednesday, August 20, 2008

Grenada

We have decided to put down some temporary roots in Grenada. It is nice here. There are lots of other boaters here. The locals are friendly. It is relatively safe and we can sleep with our hatches and doors open, which is a good thing since it is very very warm and humid.


Grenada advertises itself as being below the dreaded "hurricane belt". This myth was dispelled when Hurricane Ivan thrashed the island in 2004. Since then, many boat insurance companies (including ours) no longer insure boats in this area for wind damage caused by named or numbered storms. This fact keeps us on our toes and we have a few contingency plans on where to go should a numbered or named storm come our way.


Prior to arriving on the island of Grenada we stopped in Carriacou. Carriacou is part of Grenada and lies approximately 15 miles to the north west. Every year Carriacou hosts Regatta Week during the first week of August. The people of Carriacou are known for their boat building talents. Regatta Week is time to show off.



The traditional small island Work Boat lies ready on the beach. These boats are in a racing class by themselves.



Each boat is hand crafted on the island, beautifully painted and named.
At the start of the race a crew member, dressed with hiking harness, holds the bow of his boat as the race is about to commence.

In a later race, the sloops head downwind and the colorful spinnakers are raised.

The younger sailors have their own race.
With a whole week of racing we saw many beautiful boats.


Rounding the mark.Not interested in sailing? How about a "go fast" piroque?

Staying cool was the name of the game and the locals had the best idea....boat with umbrella.

We did manage to find a cold brewAnd some shadeOf course, if you are among the younger crowd, fashion rules the day. Here Lydia (center) decided this party called for ankle high boots. Vogue, take note. Here are three future fashion princesses. When the party ended we left. There was another party waiting for us in Grenada. Carnival.



Carnival is an annual event in all the Caribbean islands. It is planned for and widely anticipated by residents and visitors. Carnival events can go on for days. There is music and music and music. When there is music there is dancing. There is dancing in costume and dancing without costume. Jouvert (open day in French) begins the first day of the last three days of carnival. We had anchored our boat right downtown, in the thick of things. We were awakened for Jouvert at 4:30am. Large speakers the size of the Empire State Building (OK, I am exagerating) began blaring island music. There are favorite songs for carnival, about 4, that are played over and over and over again. Our boat vibrated. We flew out of bed wondering if the end of the world was near or had a hurricane spontaneously formed overnight? NO, Carnival had begun.


Mayhem as the paraders are getting organized



Fellow boaters decided to brave the crowds. We opted to stay onboard and watch from the bow, with our morning java.This particular parade was about paints and symbolism? I am guessing here but draw you own conclusions. The black shiny body paint is motor oil.....yep, motor oil.
Lots and lots of motor oil. We stayed away from this crowd just in case they wanted to shake our hands or give us a hug.
Maybe yellow is more to your liking? No problem, yellow paint is available.Or maybe green?
The local firemen decided to view the parade from the safety of their dorm rooms.And the local Chinese contingency,watching safely from the upstairs balcony, were not interested in being black, yellow or green (no puns or racial slurring intended here).
And then it was a day later and time for the costume parade. The Moko Jumbies (stilts) are great
All costumes are judged for design and originality.The children are beautiful and they can dance

And the fashion princesses are busy designing their own costumes with tings found during the parade.

Carnival is finished and life is back to normal. On Wednesday nights we go to hambuger night at Clarks Court Marina. Sounds trivial but the burgers are great (no fillers). On Fridays we go to market. Going to market is a treat. Stay tuned for some good photos.

From Grenada

Anne and Steve

S/V Fine Line

Thursday, July 31, 2008

St. Vincent & The Beautiful Grenadines

The island of St. Vincent lies 25 miles south of St. Lucia. The trade winds typically blow from the east so the sail south is a very nice beam reach. Along the way we saw large groups of dolphins. They are very playful and like to show off. This photo was taken by Carla on Alegria. Nice shot Carla.


St. Vincent is a beautiful island: green, lush, mountainous. There are, however, pirates here. Sailing with our friends on Alegria, we decided to brave the notorious pirate hideout of Wallilabou.


Do you recognize this arch? Imagine three pirates, strung up by the British, hanging from this arch. That's what greeted Captain Jack Sparrow when he sailed in to this port in the Pirates Of The Caribbean.




Some of the movie set remains..... with a little wear and tear.

Steve and Dan trying to get out of cooking dinner.....The next day we set out for a walk to a near by waterfall. It is a short walk. There is a road that leads directly to the falls. You cannot, however, take this walk by yourself. You will have a tour guide whether you like it or not. You cannot pick your own tour guide. The tour guide picks you. "no thank you, no thank you" will not get rid of your self appointed tour guide. We had three young boys as our "tour guide".


The water was cool and refreshing.


We all jumped in for a swim.Our young tour guides lounged by the water's edge. They are planning on how to extort something... anything, from us.



St. Vincent is avoided by many boaters. The crime rate is higher here than on other islands and boaters have been victims of violent crimes in certain harbors. The poverty is extreme and the drug use is high. Marijuana is cultivated, sold and used by many islanders. It is easy to be afraid but we have pledged to not let fear stop us from seeing the places we want to see. We come in groups and stay together.


But we do not stay long. The next day we headed south to the Blue Lagoon and the following day we head for Bequia.


Bequia is a boaters paradise. Admiralty Bay is a good place to drop your hook.


The locals here are friendly and helpful. They come by your boat and sell supplies, just in case you do not want to go ashore. Many locals are sailors themselves and enjoy a good breeze in the bay.







Onshore there are small markets, fruit and vegetable vendors, and small quaint bars and restaurants.


We also visited Brother King at the Old Hegg Turtle Sanctuary.


Brother King nurtures baby Hawksbill Turtles and Green Turtles until they can fend for themselves.



Green Turtle



Hawksbill Turtle A week in Bequia went by quickly. We hiked around the island,




hung out with friends, sampled the local Roti (wrap with curry chicken, beef or fish) and washed all our dirty clothes. What a relief. We also bought a new lure. Good idea!


Leaving Bequia and headed for the Grenadines, we caught this nice little Tuna with our new lure. Delicious!




A few days later we were in the Tobago Cays. There are not many places on earth where the water is this clear and this beautiful.



The Atlantic Ocean is in front of us. We are anchored behind a horseshoe shaped reef.

It is a beautiful reef with lots of treasures.



A curious Reef Shark
Scrawled Filefish
School of GruntsJuvenile Surgeonfish and a Wrasse


SquirrelfishAqueous Homo Saphien


Stormy day. The reef protects from the swell but not the wind. This squall brought us alot of rain but the winds did not exceed 30 knots.


The Tobago Cays are surrounded by many small islands. We spent a little time on each.


We hiked to the top of Mayreau Island for a spectacular view.



Electricity was introduced to this island in 2003 (not a typo, it is true). The locals here are friendly and proud of their French-Catholic heritage


This beautiful stone-built Roman Catholic was built in 1929.




Equally famous is Robert Lewis "Righteous's" restaurant, Righteous & de Youths. It has Rastafarian written all over it, inside and out. You can get a mean rum drink here and if you come during high season, December-May, this place is happening.For dinner we lounged around the pool at Dennis's Hideaway. Dennis is an ex-charter boat skipper and is quite the business man. Boaters gather around his small bar as Dennis entertains us with stories of past girlfriends and his many children scattered around the globe. He also has a great cook :)One other small island we visited was Petite St. Vincent. It is a private island but the beach is public. Once you step past the beach, however, the security guards find you. I guess the guests who pay, starting at $900/night, want some privacy! Of course it is a game to see how far you can get.



We scored 10 seconds on a lounge chair.

But who needs a chair when you have this....



We are now in Tyrrel Bay, Carriacou. It is Regatta Week. Stay tuned and I will soon tell you all about it.


Anne and Steve


S/V Fine Line