Local Flavor

The national dish of Grenada is "Oil Down". Sounds like something that might be fried but there is no oil added to this very popular concoction. The term Oil Down comes from the coconut milk that is used in the preparation and when cooked long enough reduces to coconut oil, or so the story goes?

We had heard alot of this local favorite and when an invitation was issued to boaters to join a community "Oil Down" up in the mountains, who could resist. The local rum shop was the site of our gathering, how convenient!

Pam on Wildcat along with Ruth, the rum shop owner, and her grandson enjoy the cool overcast afternoon. The men do the cooking and all the work that it entails and the women get to sit and chat. Works for me (Anne).The cooking pot is called a "karhee" or simply a curry pot. I'm sure we will see these on Martha Stewart soon so remember, you saw it here first!

Grenada is a very lush island. Lots of things grow here. And everything that grows here goes into the pot. Almost everything. Green plantains and bluggoes are peeled and thrown in whole. They are not sweet. They are very starchy.

Papaya is added for flavor and it has an enzyme that tenderizes everything.Callaloo is a large, elephant ear shaped green plant that is used widely on the island. It cooks down and tastes alot like spinach. Callaloo soup is one of our favorite island dishes. Another main ingredient is breadfruit. Breadfruit was imported (many years ago) to the islands from Tahiti to feed the slaves. It is another mainstay of the islanders and tastes alot like potatoe. It must be peeled by a man!

Coconut and tumeric is grated in large amounts. The grater is not something you will find in your favorite cook shop. It is hand made from scrap metal, punched with a nail and fastened to some sturdy tree branches. Very rustic setup and can only be handled by a man.

Water is added to the coconut/tumeric mixture. Gotta use your hands for this.

And now the coconut milk can be strained into the pot.

Meanwhile, at the firepit, the rest of the cooks are lighting up the embers. Cocounut husks are great firestarters.

And there is no shortage of wood, chop chop, watch your fingers. Don't try this at homeThe ingredients are added to the pot with fine precision.

Can't leave the meat portion of this meal unmentioned. That's chicken wings, pig's tail and pig's snout. Yummmmy! Can't wait for a taste.

And then it was ready for the fire.While we waited for dinner to cook, our host took us for a hike. Hiking here always means walking uphill and downhill. There are very few level walks to be found.Small colorful homes are perched high in the hills.

This is a pod of brazil nuts. They ripen in December. The top pops off and brazil nuts fall to the ground.

We returned from our hike just in time to see the dumplings being added.And soon it was time to eat. It was a great meal we will not soon forget. Thanks to the many cooks and wonderful hosts we left with full bellys. Not a complaint from us except.....how do you get this yellow tumeric off Captain Clean's hands?

Be back soon,

Anne and Steve

S/V Fine Line