Thursday, October 08, 2009

Los Testigos

We leave Grenada at midnight. The moon is up and the sky is glittering with stars. Sailing at night can be beautiful. We set our course, turn on the autopilot, radar and begin negotiations for who will sleep first and who will take the first watch. Thanks Steve.


Early the next morning we discover a stow away. He is as sleepy as we are and has no intentions of leaving. OK with us.



We arrive at Los Testigos (Witness Islands) early in the morning. There are 6 small islands here with numerous rocks scattered around. Our electronic map is not accurate and there is a crazy current running between the islands. Fortunately our guide book has great detail on how to approach the main anchorage.


The sky is full of birds. They are diving and swooping for breakfast while keeping a close eye on us. To their disappointment we are not fishing. The poles are put away for the day.
As we come around to the main island we are greeted by a fleet of decorated boats. Is this our greeting committee?
It is a holiday celebrating the Virgen del Valle. Since there are no airports on this island, friends and family have arrived from the mainland via boat.
These islands are all about boats. They love their boats. They love to go fast in their boats and showing off to visiting yachts. Put on a life jacket please!!
We are anchored with a few other boats. We are taking a much deserved rest after our night-long-passage. Loud music infiltrates our foggy brains. We look and see an entire fleet bearing down on us. We are in a panic. Do we pick up our anchor and move? Are they going to go around us? Is this the navy? Have we broken some wierd Venezuelan law? Ha Ha, they come close but only to wave, dance and yell the name of our boat.."Fine Line, Fine Line, Fine Line"...ha ha ha ha. OK, back to sleep.

Approximately 160 people live on these islands full time. But now there are people everywhere. Tents line the shore.
Everywhere you look there are people having a good time making due with very little. There are no stores but there is no shortage of beer, rum and delicious empanadas.... and creative housing "island style".
Los Testigos are known for their fishing, beautiful water, beaches and sand dunes.


We hike up a very steep sand dune and on the other side of the island we find a beautiful beach.
And we find wild animals.
Steve can't resist. He rides this beast with wild abandon and walks away a proud man. He didn't get tossed, no sir, not this captain.
We are on our way back. The sand is hot hot hot. You can't wear shoes, it is too soft. You gotta run for it
Anne may be old but turn on the heat under her feet and well.... see for yourself. Adios muchachos.
Back on the boat we are continually buzzed by locals. They wave, stop to say "hi", practice some English and laugh at our pathetic attempts to speak Spanish.
We move our boat to a more secluded anchorage. We need some peace and quiet. There are no other boats here and for a good reason...the water is full of these creepy jelly fish
We decide we have had enough fun here is Los Testigos. Time to leave and head to Blanquilla. 90 miles west is our next stop. In order to arrive during daylight hours we must depart Los Testigos around 3am. We enjoy a great dinner and beautiful sunset and then it is time for some sleep.
The next day we are delighted by some great company

We have two lines out trolling for fish. The birds won't leave us alone. Sadly we catch more than one bird and decided to retire the fishing poles.
The dolphins come and go. They make us smile.

Check it out.








See you in Blanquilla,


Anne and Steve
S/V Fine Line

1 comment:

LaRoka said...

Hi
I invite you to register on the group I fund on Facebook : Isla Los Testigos.
see you!